Japanese / [English]


A cross-reference between the Alpine Club's guide books, Mont Blanc
Massif - Selected Climbs (1990 and 1991) and Gaston Rebuffat's book,
Mont Blanc Massif - Selected 100 Routes, is now available.

Introduction:

Rebuffat's book contains one hundred splendid classic routes, and is
now a classic reference for many alpinists. It is truly the best book
for those entering the Chamonix area for the first time. Unfortunately,
it is out of the print, and is now a collector's item [Note: Reprints
are now available]. Since the book was written more than two decades
ago, many changes have occurred in routes, climbing equipment, and
techniques. Consequently, the climbing difficulties given by Rebuffat
are rather outdated. On the other hand, the two-volume guide books
published by the Alpine Club are based on more recent information. In
addition, the grading systems used by the guide books meet the current
standard of mountaineering.

The Alpine Club's guide books contain an overwhelming large number of
routes - approximately 900 of them. For climbers who are less familiar
with the area, it may be difficult to understand the layout of the
guide books. For those who wish to try the admirable classic routes of
the Alps, Rebuffat's book would be a good starting point. More detailed
up-to-date information can then be studied with the Alpine Club's guide
books.

To find the corresponding pages in the guide books for a route described
in the Rebuffat's book is not always easy. It is often a time-consuming
effort. The cross-reference as shown below should reduce search time.

Most routes in the Rebuffat's book are cross-referenced to the corre-
sponding routes appearing in the guide books. However, cross-references
for several of Rebuffat's routes, usually traverse routes, which are
combinations of several segmental routes described in the guide books,
are not completed at this time. I intend to complete those unfinished
parts in future dates, and to publish them as they become available.

If you find any errors or have any comments, contact me at the following
E-mail address: <Five13(at)aol.com>. If such errors or deficiencies in the
cross-reference cause accidents or unfortunate incidents in the mountains,
such errors are not my responsibility. The use of this cross-reference
is entirely your responsibility.

Guides to use the cross-reference:

The sequence of routes appearing in the cross-reference is in the same
order used in the Rebuffat book. Rebuffat claims the lower numbers to
be easier and the higher numbers to be harder and require a more com-
mitted nature of climbing. Since modern ice climbing techniques have
been greatly advanced, some ice routes appearing in the Rebuffat book
may seem out of place.

The route name appearing in the first line for each entry is identical
to Rebuffat's book (an English translation version). The second line is
the French name used by Rebuffat and is typed in squared brackets. The
third line contains the information obtained from the Alpine Club's
guide books. The information includes the grades, climbing elevations,
climbing durations, and the references to the Alpine Club's guide book.

The grading system used in the cross-reference is obtained from the
guide book, which is common knowledge to most climbers. So I will not
repeat it here. The rock grades shown in the cross-reference are the
hardest pitch (or move) of the route and extracted from the guide books'
texts. Also, most of the grades listed are based on free moves (though
some cheating, by pulling or stepping in a sling, can be done for some
moves).

The climbing elevations represent the vertical elevation in meters (m)
from the bottom of the rock or ice face to the top of the face (i.e.,
the summit or the sky line ridge). The climbing durations are in units
of hours (h) and minutes (m), and usually account for the time from
the hut to the end of the climb as defined in the guide book. Again,
these data are obtained from the guide book, and hence they may not be
identical to Rebuffat's.

If a Rebuffat route consists of multiple routes from the Alpine Club's
guide books, the guide books' routes are listed sequentially, with the
corresponding Rebuffat route description. Sometimes, descent routes are
included, and are listed in a similar fashion. When the corresponding
routes are in doubt, question marks are added.

The referenced routes are shown by the numbers used in the guide books.
The names of the routes as they appear in the guide books are also
followed, and page and volume numbers of the guide books are also shown.

During the construction of the cross-reference, I discovered several
discrepancies in peak altitudes between the Rebuffat's and Alpine Club's.
I believe that some of the discrepancies could be resolved if they are
checked against maps. The peak altitudes shown in the cross reference
are based on Rebuffat's book.

There are some discrepancies in the first ascents' information. Also,
I have found a few wrong indices appearing on photography, diagrams,
and texts in the Alpine Club's guide books. Fortunately, these are
easily to detect if the texts are carefully read.

Yuki Fujita,
Hudson, MA.
U.S.A.

September, 1996

1.   CLOCHER AND CLOCHETONS DE PLANPRAZ, Traverse
[Clocher-Clochetons de Planpraz traversee]
IV, a few hours (1. Clocher and Clochetons de Plan Praz, p.114, Vol-II)

2.   GLACIER DES BOSSONS, Introduction to Ice-climbing
[Glacier des Bossons' ecole de glace]
?

3.   AIGUILLE DE L'INDEX, South-East Ridge
[Aiguille de l'Index arete sud-est]
IV, 100m, 1h30m (2. South-East Ridge, p.114, Vol-II)

4.   CHAPLLE DE LA GLIERE, South Ridge
[Chapelle de la Gliere arete sud]
IV+, 400m, 3~4h (3. South Ridge, p.115, Vol-II)

5.   AIGUILLE DE LA PERSEVERANCE, North-East Ridge
[Aiguille de la Perseverance arete nord-est]
IV+, 300m, 3~4h (9. North-East Ridge, p.117, Vol-II)

6.   AIGUILLE DU POUCE, South Face - Voie des Dalles
[Aiguille du Pouce face sud-voie des Dalles]
VI-, 400m, ?h (6. Voie des Dalles, p.116, Vol-II)

7.   AMONE SLAB
[Dalle de l'Amone]
V with VI- moves 400m (Amone Slab, p.212, Vol-II)

8.   SARRE ROOF
[Toit de Sarre]
?

9.   PETITS CHARMOZ, Traverse
[Petits Charmoz traversee]
IV (186. Traverse via an Ascent of South-East Ridge, pp.106-107, Vol-II)

10.  PETITE AIGUILLE VERTE, Ordinary Route
[Petite Aiguille Verte voie normale]
F+/PD-, 100m, 1h (116. North-West Ridge, p.173, Vol-II)

11.  TOUR ROUNDE - VALLEE BLANCHE, South-East Ridge
[Tour Ronde arete sud-est, Vallee Blanche]
PD, 3h from the Torino Hut. (267. South-East Ridge, pp.130-131, Vol-I)

12.  AIGUILLE CROUX, South Face
[Aiguille Croux face sud]
PD+/AD- (IV), 200m, 3h (119. South Ridge, p.83, Vol-I) >
PD+ (118. North-West Ridge, p.83, Vol-I) >
     POINTE DE L'INNOMINATA, South Ridge
[Pointe de l'Innominata arete sud]
PD+ (116. Punta Innominata South-East Ridge, p.82, Vol-I)

13.  DOMES DE MIAGE, Traverse
[Dome de Miage traversee]
PD, 8~9h for the round trip (5. Traverse of Main Ridge East to West,
pp.37-38, Vol-I)

14.  TOUR NOIR, Traverse
[Tour Noir traversee]
PD, 160m, 3h from the Argentiere Hut. (178. French (west) Side, p.204,
Vol-II) >
PD, 300m 1h from the Col. (177. North Ridge, p.203, Vol-II) >
PD, (175. South-East Flank, p.202, Vol-II) for the descent.

15.  AIGUILLE DU TOUR, Table de Roc Ridge
[Aiguille de Tour arete de la Table de Roc]
PD, 400m, 4~5h from the Albert Premier Hut. (276. South-West (Table de Roc)
Spur, pp.239-240, Vol-II)

16.  AIGUILLE DU MOINE, South Ridge
[Aiguille du Moine arete sud]
AD-(IV), 450m, 4h30m from the Couvercle Hut. (167. South Ridge, p.199,
Vol-II)>
(166. South Face, pp.198-199) for the descent route.

17.  MONT BLANC DU TACUL, Ordinary Routes
[Mont Blanc du Tacul voie normale]
PD-, 700m, 2h30m~3h (189. North-West Face, p.106, Vol-I) >
     AIGUILLE DU MIDI, Arete des Cosmiques (South-South-West Ridge)
[Aiguille du Midi arete des Cosmiques]
PD+, 260m, 2h30m~3h (1. South-South-West (Cosmiques) Ridge, pp.32-33, Vol-II)

18.  AIGUILLE DE L'M, North-North-East Ridge
[Aiguille de l'M arete nord-nord-est]
IV+/V-, 200m, 2h (191. North-North-East Ridge, p.109, Vol-II)

19.  AIGUILLE D'ARGENTIERE, Ordinary Route
[Aiguille d'Argentiere voie normale]
PD-/PD, 950m, 4h from the Argentiere Hut. (206. South-West Flank (Milieu
Galcier), pp.212-213, Vol-II)

20.  PYRAMIDES DU TACUL, East Ridge
[Pyramide du Tacul arete est]
IV/IV+, 270m (236. East Ridge, p.121, Vol-I)

21.  AIGUILLE DU MIDI - AIGUILLE DU PLAN, Traverse
[Aiguille du Midi - Aiguille du Plan traversee]
PD (II/III), 3~4h to Aig. du Plan from Aig. du Midi. (18. Midi-Plan Traverse
(North-East Ridge), p.38, Vol-II) >
PD, 1100m descent from the Col Sup du Plan, 2h (23. South-East Face, p.40,
Vol-II)

22.  DENT DU REQUIN, South-East Ridge of Chapeau a Cornes Ridge
[Dent du Requin arete sud-est]
AD(IV), 500m, 4h30m~5h from the Requin Hut. (44. South-East (Chapeau a
Cornes) Ridge, pp.49-50, Vol-II)

23.  GRANDES JORASSES, Ordinary Route
[Grandes Jorasses voie normale]
AD-(III), 6~7h from the Grandes Jorasses Hut. (42. South-West Side via
Pointe Whymper, p.152, Vol-I), or
AD-, 5~6h from the hut, (43. Direct to Pointe Walker, p.152, Vol-I)
Note: Point Whymper is the Normal route.

24.  MONT BLANC, Ordinary Route
[Mont Blanc voie normale]
PD-, 5h from the Gouter Hut. (57. Gouter Ridge (Normal Route), p.55, Vol-I)

25.  AIGUILLE DES PELERINS, Grutter Ridge
[Aiguille des Pelerins arete Grutter]
V, 600m (65. South-West (Grutter) Ridge Integral, pp.58-59, Vol-II)

26.  AIGUILLES DOREES, Traverse
[Aiguille Dorees traversee]
AD+(IV), 10~12h from the Trient Hut. (281. Traverse of Aiguilles Dorees,
pp.241-242, Vol-II)

27.  LES ECANDIES, Traverse
[Les Ecandies traversee]
V (314. Traverse south to north, pp.253-255, Vol-II)

28.  AIGUILLE DU CHARDONNET, Forbes Arete
[Aiguille du Chardonnet arete Forbes]
AD (III) (240. East Ridge (Forbes Arete, pp.227-228, Vol-II), the descent
route (239 p.226)

29.  LES COURTES, North-East Face
[Les Courtes face nord-est]
AD, 800m, 5~6h from the Argentiere Hut. (56. North-East Slope, p.142, Vol-II)

30.  MONT BLANC, AIGUILLES, Grises Routes
[Mont Blnac route des Aigulles Grises]
PD- (63. Mont Blanc Italian side: Aiguilles Grises Route, pp.57-58, VBol-I)

31.  AIGUILLE DU PEIGNE, Ordinary Route
[Aiguille du Peigne voie normale]
AIGUILLES DES PELERINS, Carmichael Route
[Aiguille des Pelerins voie Carmichael]
AD (IV+), 600m, 3h~3h30m (74. Normal Route, pp.62-63, Vol-II), then
IV, 200m, 2h (66. Carmichael Route, p.59, Vol-II), and descend (64. South
Face (Normale Route, p.58)

32.  GRANDS CHARMOZ - GREPON, Traverse
[Grands Charmo - Grepon taversee]
AD+ (IV/IV+), 5h15m from the Plan de l'Aiguille. (168. S-W face and Main
Ridge Traverse, pp.96-97, Vol-II), then
D-, (146. Traverse by north and south-south-west, p.88, Vol-II)

33.  AIGUILLE DE ROCHEFORT, Traverse of the Ridges
[Aiguille de Rochufort traversee des Aretes]
DENT DU GEANT, Ordinary Route
AD (III), 180m, 4h30~5h30m from the Torino Hut. (5. South-west face
(normal route, pp.139-140, Vol-I), then
AD (15. West Ridge, p.143, Vol-I)

34.  AIGUILLE DE BLAITIERE LES CISEAUX - AIGUILLE DU FOU, Traverse
[Aiguille de Blaitier les Ciseaux - Aiguille du Fou traversee]
AD (III), 5h~5h30m from the Plan de l'Aiguille. (113. Spencer Couloir,
p.77, Vol-II), then
(p.75), then
AD+(III+) (105. North-North-East Ridge (Normal Route), p.74, Vol-I)

35.  TOUR RONDE, North Face
[Tour Ronde face nord]
AD+/D-, 350m, 4h (273. North Face, p.132, Vol-I)

36.  AIGUILLE DE TRELATETE, Traverse
[Aiguille de Tre la Tete traversee]
AD, 9h~10h for the round trip (20. Traverse of the Aiguilles from France,
pp.41-42, Vol-I)

37.  TRIDENT DU TACUL, Lepiney Route
[Trident du Tacul voie Lepiney]
IV/V, 200m, 3h (260. Le Trident: Normal Route via East Face, pp.127-128,
Vol-I)

38.  LES COURTES - AIG. RAVANEL - MUMMERY, Traverse
[Les Courtes Aiguilles Ravanel - Mummery traversee]
PD+, 9h for the round trip from the Couvercle Hut. (54. Traverse of Main
Ridge, p.141, Vol-II), then
IV+ (52. Aiguille Ravanel South Face and East-South, p.140, Vol-II), then
IV+ (50. Aiguille Mummery East Face, p.138, Vol-II)

39.  PETITES JORASSES, South Ridge
[Petites Jorasses arete sud]
D- (V), 400m, 5h~6h from the Gervasutti Hut. (83. South Ridge, p.169, Vol-I)

40.  PETIT DRU - GRAND DRU, Traverse
[Petit Dru - Grand Dru traversee]
D- (IV+), 700m, 7h from the Charpoua Hut. (131. South Flank and South-West
Ridge, pp.181-182, Vol-II), then
D+ (IV) (132. Traverse of les Drus, pp.182-183, Vol-II)

41.  AIGUILLE VERTE, Whymper Couloir
[Aiguille Verte cuoloir Whymper]
AD+, 600m, 5h~7h from the Couvercle Hut. (90. Whymper Couloir, p.159, Vol-II)

42.  AIGUILLE CROUX, South-East Face
[Aiguille Croux face sud-est]
V/V+, 300m, 6h (122. South-Eeast Face, pp.83-84, Vol-I)

43.  AIGUILLE DU CHARDONNET, North Spur
[Aiguille du Chardonnet eperon nord]
D-, 450m, 6h from the Albert Premier Hut. (242. North Buttress, p.228, Vol-II)

44.  DENT DU REQUIN, East Face
[Dent du Requin face est]
V, 570m, 5h~6h from the hut. (47. Renaudie Direct (Central Spur), pp.50-51,
Vol-II)

45.  MONT DOLENT, North Ridge
[Mont Dolent arete nord]
D (IV), 600m, 8h from the Argentiere Hut. (35. North Ridge, p.132, Vol-II)

46.  AIGUILLE DE L'M, Menegaux and Couzy Route
[Aiguille de l'M voies M'enegaux et Couzy]
VI+, 200m,4h (192. Menegaux Route, p.110, Vol-II)
V, 200m, 3h (193. Couzy Route, p.110, Vol-II)

47.  AIGUILLE DU PLAN, Ryan-Lochmatter Ridge
[Aiguille du Plan arete Ryan]
D/D+ (IV+), 550m, 8~10h from the Envers Hut.(31. East Ridge, pp44-45, Vol-II)

48.  PAIN DE SUCRE D'ENVERS DU PLAN, North Face
[Pain de Sucre d'Envers du Plan face nord]
D, 7~9h from the Envers Hut. (36. North Face, p.46, Vol-II)

49.  AIGUILLE DE BIONNASSAY, North-West Face
[Aiguille de Bionnassay face nord-quest]
AD/AD+ (50. North-West Face: Original Route, p.52, Vol-I) > ???
MONT BLANC, Traverse
[Mont Blanc traversee]
?

50.  MONT MAUDIT, Tour Ronde Ridge
[Mont Maudi arete de la Tour Rande]
D (IV), 800m, 5~7h from the Fourche Hut. (174. Frontier Ridge, pp.101-102,
Vol-I)

51.  AIGUILLE DU MOINE, East Face
[Aiguille du Moine face est]
VI, 400m, 6h (171. East Face Direct, p.201, Vol-II)

52.  AIGUILLE DU PEIGNE, Papillons Ridge (West Ridge proper), West Face,
     North-West Pillar, North-West Face, North Ridge
[Aiguille du Peigne Papilons, face W, pilier NW, face NW arete N]
V, 480m, 4h from the Plan de l'Aiguille. (78. Papilons (West) Ridge, p.64,
Vol-II)
V,140m (80. Upper North-West Face: West-North-West Face, p.65, Vol-II)
VII/VII+ all free, 170m (81. Upper North-West Face: North-West Pillar, p.65,
Vol-II)
VI/VI+ or V+/A1, 180m (82. Upper North-West Face: North-west face - Pascal
Meyer Route, p.65, Vol-II)
VI, 600m, 5~8h from the plan de l'Aiguille. (83. Upper North-West Face:
North Ridge, pp.65-66, Vol-II)

53.  POINTE LACHENAL, South-South-East Face
[Pointe Lachenal face sud-est]
VII+, 250m (228. Contamine Rroute, p.120, Vol-I)
     AIGUILLE DU MIDI, Eperon des Cosmiques
[Aiguille du Midi eperon des Cosmiques]
V/V+, 120m, 3h30m from the station. (2. Cosmiques Spur: South Face, p.33,
Vol-II)

54.  AIG. DU DIABLE - MONT BLANC DU TACUL, Traverse
[Aiguille du Diable - Mont Blanc du Tacul traversee]
D+ (IV), 11~13h from the Torino Hut. (190. Diable (Suth-East) Ridge,
pp.107-108, Vol-I)

55.  AIGUILLE DU MIDI, South Face
[Aiguille du Midi face sud]
VII (all free), 190m (7. South-East Pillar: Rebuffat Route, p.34, Vol-II)

56.  MONT BLANC, Brenva Spur
[Mont Blanc eperon de la Brenva]
AD/D 1300m to the summit, 9~11h from the Trident Hut. (73. Brenva Spur,
p.62, Vol-I)

57.  DENT DU GEANT, South Face
[Dent du Geant face sud]
V/A1, 150m, 4h (12. South Face, p.142, Vol-I), the descent route:
(5. South-West Face, pp.139-140)
Note: There is an error on the route map23. The correct route numbers are
shown in photo 65.

58.  PIC ADOLPHE REY, Salluard Route
[Pic Adolphe Rey voie Salluard]
V+ (some A1), 300m, 5~7h (243. East-South-East Spur (Salluard Route), p.123,
Vol-I)

59.  MONT BLANC DU TACUL, Gervasutti Couloir
[Mont Blanc du Tacul couloir Gervasutti]
D-, 670m, 5~7h (D+, Scottish 3. for left hand exit, 800m 8~9h) (210.
Gervasutti Couloir, p.114, Vol-I)

60.  LE MINARET, South-East Spur and South Face Direct
[Le Minaret eperon sud-est et face sud directe]
V+, 270m, 5~6h (227. South-East Spur, pp.222-223, Vol-II)
V+, 300m,5~6h (229. South Face Direct, p.223, Vol-II)

61.  AIGUILLE DU PEIGNE, Vaucher Route
[Aiguille du Peigne voie Vaucher]
VI, 400m, 4~5h, (76. South-West Face (Vaucher Route), p.63, Vol-II)

62.  AIGUILLE DU MIDI, Frendo Spur
[Aiguille du Midi eperon Frendo]
D+ (V, Scottish 3), 1100m, 9~12h from the Plan de l'Aiguille. (15. Frendo
Spur, pp.36-37, Vol-II)

63.  PETIT CLOCHER DU PORTALET, East Face and South-East Ridge
[Petit Clocher du Portalet face est et arete sud-est]
VI, 240m, 6~7h from the Orny Hut. (306. East Face, pp.250-251, Vol-II)
VII/VII+, 220m, 6~7h from hut to summit. (307. South-East Pillar, p.251,
Vol-II)

64.  PIC DE ROC - GREPON, Traverse
[Pic de Poc - Grepon traversee]
VI (151. Via Aiguille de Roc, p.91, Vol-II)

65.  AIGUILLE D'ARGENTIERE, North Face
[Aiguille d'Argentiere face nord]
D-, 700m, 4~5h (209. Original Route, p.215, Vol-II)

66.  GRANDES JORASSES, Hirondelles Ridge
[Grandes Jorasses arete des Hirondelles]
D/D+ (V/V+), 750m, 6~8h (57. North-East (Hirondelles) Ridge, p.160, Vol-I)

67.  AIGUILLE DE LA BRENVA, East Face
[Aiguille de la Brenva face est]
V/V+, 450m, 5~7h (283. East Face (Rebuffat Route), p.135, Vol-I)

68.  DENT DU CROCODILE, East Ridge
[Dent du Crocodile arete est]
TD- (V), 525m, 8~10h from the Eners Hut (93. East Ridge, pp.69-70, Vol-II)

69.  AIGUILLE DU PLAN, North Face
[Aiguille du Plan face nord]
TD- (IV), 1000m, 7~12h from Plan de l'Aiguille (28. North Face Direct,
p.42-43, Vol-II)

70.  MONT MAUDIT, Cretier Route
[Mont Maudit voie Cretier]
TD- (IV+), 750m, 7~10h from the Trident Hut (165. Cretier Route, p.99, Vol-I)

71.  AIGUILLE DE BLAITIERE, West Face
[Aiguille de Blaitiere face quest]
VII, 750m (129. British Route (aka Fissure Brown or Brown's Fist), p.81,
Vol-II)
Note: I heard this route has been changed due to the huge rock slides a few
years ago.

72.  MONT BLANC DU TACUL, Boccalatte Pillar
[Mont Blanc du Tacul pilier Boccalatte]
D+/TD- (V+), 800m, 6~8h (204. Central Spur - Boccalatte Pillar, p.112, Vol-I)

73.  ROCHEFORT RIDGE - GRANDES JORASSES, Traverse
[Aretes de Rochefort - Grandes Jorasses]
?

74.  AIGUILLE VERTE, Grands Montets Ridge
[Aiguille Verte arete des Grands Montets]
D (IV+), 900m, 9~11h from Grands Montets station (96. Grands Montets Ridge,
pp.96-97, Vol-II)

75.  AIGUILLE NOIRE DE PEUTEREY, South ridge
[Aiguille Noire de Peuterey arete sud]
TD (V+), 1200m, 12~14h from the Noire Hut (142. South Ridge, pp.91-93, Vol-I)

76.  LES COURTES
[Les Courtes eperon central nord-nord-est]
D (V), 1000m, 8h from Argentiere Hut (58. North-North-East (Central Spur),
pp.142-143, Vol-II)

77.  AIGUILLE VERTE, Sans Nom Ridge
[Aiguille Verte arete Sans Nom]
D+ (IV+), 10~12h from theCouvercle Hut (94. Snas Nom Rridge, pp.161-162,
Vol-II)

78.  DENT DU REQUIN, North Face
[Dent du Requin face nord]
TD (VI+, A1), 700m, 8~10h from the Envers Hut (51. North Face Original
Route, p.53, Vol-II)

79.  AIGUILLE VERTE, Couturier Couloir
[Aiguille Verte couloir Couturier]
D, 900m, 4~8h from the rimaye (102. Couturier Clouloir, pp.166-167, Vol-II)

80.  PETIT DRU, North Face
[Petit Dru face nord]
TD (VI/VI+ free), 850m, 8~12h from the Dru Rognon (142. North Face Original
Route, pp.187-188, Vol-II)

81.  MONT BLANC, Innominata Ridge
[Mont Blanc arete de l'Innominata]
D/D+ (IV), 800m, 8~11h from the Eccles Bivouac Huts. (99. Innominata Ridge,
p.75, Vol-I)

82.  LES DROITES, North Spur
[Les Droites eperon nord]
TD/TD+, 1100m, 12~15h from the Argentiere Hut. (71. North-East Spur,
pp.148-149, Vol-II)

83.  AIGUILLE NOIRE DE PEUTEREY, West Face
[Aiguille Noir de Peuterey face ouest]
TD (VI,A1), 650m, 10h (148. West Face Direct (Ratti-Vitali) Route, p.94,
Vol-I)

84.  CHAMONIX AIGUILLES, Aiguille du Midi - Grepon Traverse
[Aiguille de Chamonix traversee Aguille du Midi - Grepon]
?

85.  PETITES JORASSES, West Face
[Petites Jorasses face ouest]
TD (VI/VI+), 700m, 8~12h (85. Original Route, p.170, Vol-I)

86.  MONT BLANC DU TACUL, Gervasutti Pillar
[Mont Blanc Du Tacul pilier Gervasutti]
TD (V+, A1), 800m, 8~12h (203. Gervasutti Pillar, p.112, Vol-I)

87.  POINTE GUGLIERMINA, South-West Face
[Pointe Gugliermina face sud-ouest]
TD/TD+ (VI-and A1 or VII+free), 600m, 7~9h (131. South-West Face, p.87, Vol-I)

88.  AIGUILLE DU TRIOLET, North Face
[Aiguille du Triolet face nord]
TD- (Scottich 3), 6~9h (11. North Face Original Route, pp.123-124, Vol-II)

89.  GRAND CAPUCIN, East Face
[Grand Capucin face est]
TD/TD+ (V+/VI, A1), 350m, from the terraces 10h (254. East Face Original
Route, p.126, Vol-I)
Note: This route has been done completely free several times (ED3,VIII/VIII+).

90.  MONT BLANC, Route Major
[Mont Blnac voie Major]
TD-(V), 1300m, 10h30m~13h30m from the Fourche Huts. (75. Route Major,
pp.63-64, Vol-I)

91.  AIGUILLE VERTE, Nant Blanc Face
[Aiguille Verte versant du Nant Blanc]
TD, 950m, 8~10h from the rimaye. (95. Nant Blanc Face Direct, pp.162-163,
Vol-II)

92.  PETIT DRU, Bonatti Pillar
[Petit Dru pilier Bonatti]
TD+(VII+,A1) or ED3 (VIII free), 600m, 14~18h (133. South-West (Bonatti)
Pillar, pp.183-184, Vol-II)

93.  AIGUILLE DU FOU, South Face
[Aiguille du Fou face sud]
ED2/3 (VIII or VI/VI+ A2) or ED5 (IX free) (107. South Face, pp.74-75, Vol-II)

94.  LES COURTES, North Face
[Les Courtes face nord]
TD- (Socttish 3 and 4), 800m, 8~19h from the Argentiere Hut. (60. North
Face - Swiss Route, pp.143-144, Vol-II)

95.  MONT BLANC, Peuterey Ridge
[Mont Blanc arete de Peuterey]
D+ (III), 17~21h from the Monzino Hut. (85. Dames Anglaises Ridge, pp.69-70,
Vol-I)
[1. Face N]
D+/TD-, 700m, 6~8h from the Trident Hut. (127. North Face Left-Hand Route,
p.85, Vol-I)
[2. Couloir du col de Peuterey]
D, 550m, 6h (123. North-East Couloir, p.84, Vol-I)
[3. Pilier d'Angle]
TD+/ED1 (V+) (83. Grand Pilier d'Angle East Face, pp.67-68, Vol-I)

96.  GRANDES JORASSES, Pointe Croz - Central Spur
[Grandes Jorasses point Croz-eperon central]
TD+/ED1(V), 1000m, 13~16h from the Leschaux Hut. (48. North Face Corz Spur,
p.155, Vol-I)

97.  GRANDES JORASSES, Walker Spur
[Grandes Jorasses eperon Walker]
ED1(V/VI-), 1200m, 16~20h from the Leschaux Hut. (53. North Face Walker
Spur, pp.157-158, Vol-I)

98.  PETIT DRU, West Face - American Direct
[Petit Dru face ouest - directe americaine]
ED1 (VII+ or A1), 1050m, 14~18h (138. American Direct, pp.185-186, Vol-II)

99.  LES DROITES, North Face
[Les Droites face nord]
ED1 (Scottish 4/5), 1050m, 15~20h from the Argentiere Hut. (75. North Face
Classic Route, pp.151-152, Vol-II)

100. MONT BLANC, Central Pillar of Freney
[Mont Blanc pilier central du Freney]
ED1 (V+,A1), 500m for the pillar, 700m to the summit ridge (91. Freney Face
Central Pillar, p.72, Vol-I)

[Copyright (c) 1996 by Nobuyuki Fujita, Massachusetts, USA]

Message from Nobuyuki Fujita:
1) The following text are created by WordPerfect 6.0 and converted
into an ASCII format.
2) Known errors in the list are corrected. Most of the errors are typo.


Japanese / [English]